We have created a unique route with several stopovers, which will allow you to plan a 2–4 day trip, driving by car from Riga eastwards, and explore Latvian nature in all its winter splendour. The route will take you through popular and beautiful tourist destinations in Vidzeme, but as we continue further into Latgale, a fantastic adventure awaits us – snowy and unique natural views, exciting winter activities, interesting sights and historical sites, romantic accommodations with a sauna, nature parks and observation towers, impressive churches, delicious local food and other attractions that are not listed in the most popular tourist guides. At the destination, we will explore the small and idyllic border town of Kārsava, home to impressive churches and peaceful surroundings.
Riga – Kārsava. Winter adventure, driving through Vidzeme to Northern Latgale
Adventures in Sigulda and a meal in Cēsis
Early in the morning, we leave Riga in Vidzeme, headed towards Switzerland. After a short drive, we arrive in picturesque Sigulda, where the ancient Gauja valley is transformed into a kingdom draped in winter white. In Sigulda, you can try the bobsleigh and toboggan track, as well as an attraction called “vuchko” – a carriage ride along an Olympic track. Get your adrenaline pumping on the city’s ski slopes, which offer several downhill ski runs with lifts. In turn, the Sigulda cable car, 1,020 metres long and approximately 43 metres high above the Gauja, connects both banks of the river and offers breathtaking views of the ancient Gauja valley and medieval castles. After an active morning, we recommend enjoying a hot lunch in Cēsis near Sigulda. There are several popular restaurants here, including the Michelin-awarded Bib Gourmand restaurant H.E. Vanadziņš, offering modern Latvian cuisine and high-quality service. The historic old town of Cēsis will create a special atmosphere where you can warm up and have a delicious meal before continuing your journey.
Picturesque Piebalga
Next, we set off for the picturesque surroundings of Piebalga. In Vecpiebalga, it is worth climbing the Brežģa kalns observation tower, from which you can see white, snowy hills and rural landscapes. In Jaunpiebalga, the Viņķu kalns observation tower is a 17.8-metre-high structure decorated with Latvian signs and patterns painted by artist Sandra Strēle, creating a symbolic message. Further on, the road leads to Gulbene, but on the way we will stop in Lizums. Here you can see the white, Gothic building of Lizums Manor, and a park that is home to both local and exotic species of trees and shrubs.
Gulbene Railway and the Joys of Skiing
If time permits, we recommend visiting the Gulbene–Alūksne Railway in the Gulbene region, which is the only regularly operating narrow-gauge train in the Baltics on the 33-kilometre section between Gulbene and Alūksne. The trip is a great way to enjoy the snowy landscapes along the route, and during Christmas, children can visit a special Elves Station for more holiday fun. Please note these events must be booked in advance. In turn, to recharge your body and mind, take advantage of the winter activities offered in the city itself. The Gulbene ski and biathlon track offers a 2.5-kilometre-long route, which is illuminated after nightfall. You can also ski in the nearby Vecgulbene Manor Castle Park, combining sports with better health and enjoyment of the historical landscape. There is a kilometre-long illuminated track for both classic and freestyle skiers.
Arriving in Northern Latgale
After an invigorating dose of physical activity, banish the cold in a cosy accommodation that features a luxurious sauna, such as the Līčezeri bathhouse. The complex is located near Balvi – a comfy house where you can relax after a long journey, enjoy a leisurely vacation, and savour the silence of the countryside and the proximity of nature. On the shore of the lake, in an area surrounded by a forest, while lounging in a wood-burning sauna, you can observe the wonders of winter and the starry night sky through the wide panoramic window.
After a refreshing break and a good morning coffee, you are ready to set off. But first, get to know Northern Latgale better by visiting the Museum of Balvi county, a great place to immerse yourself in the values, stories and peculiarities of the region. The museum is located on the premises of Balvi Manor, in an environment that fosters a special and authentic atmosphere. Ancient barn doors made of around 200-year-old wood and furniture crafted by local craftsmen lend the rooms real character. The digital exhibition of the intangible cultural heritage of Northern Latgale is especially interesting because of the way it connects generations and allows traditions to live on in a new form.
The Road to Viļaka
Moving on, we head towards Viļaka. Along the way, we see scenic hills, snowy fields and a lonely wooden church. If time and a lack of snowfall permits, it is worth planning a visit to the Stompaku swamp nature reserve along the way – a special place where wild nature and a powerful history intertwine. This unique area is home to a rich bog ecosystem and significant cultural and historical heritage. During World War II, one of the largest partisan settlements in the Baltics was located on the islands in the eastern part of the bog, which today reminds us of courage and faith in a free, independent Latvia – an idea for which many people risked everything. When we arrive in Viļaka, it is definitely worth visiting Vilaka lake island, which is connected to the shore by one of the longest pontoon bridges in Latvia. Fragments of Marienhausen Castle can still be seen on the island; the castle was built in 1509 on the site of a collapsed fortress. Driving through Viļaka, you can stop at a Catholic church built in 1871. Near Viļaka is one of Latgale’s hidden pearls, Stiglovas ravine, featuring 3 to 4 metre cliffs that were formed approximately 375 million years ago. This place has a special aura, and feels completely undiscovered.
Balkanu kalni and Nurmenes valnis
On our way to Kārsava, we stop at the Balkanu kalni nature park, a scenic and beautiful location with a pronounced relief. Two trails allow you to explore the most interesting natural objects, high hills and steep slopes. You can enjoy active recreation in all seasons and spend the night in a picturesque environment, as well as learn legends about sunken churches. In the winter season, the Balkanu kalni nature park offers a cross-country skiing track for fans of active recreation. One circular route is 3.8 km long and leads you through plains, hills and depressions. In the dark, a 1.5 km illuminated section of the track is also available. Ski equipment rental is available on site. The park also has a holiday house with a sauna, where you can thaw out and spend the night surrounded by mountains. Balkanu kalni is a great place for walks and active recreation in Latgale. Also nearby is Rekova mill where, by prior reservation, you can enjoy a delicious meal, as well as buy buns and freshly baked bread.
Continuing on your way, we recommend visiting the Numernes valni nature park, a place where nature is protected to preserve rare forest and swamp habitats, valuable plant species, as well as endangered and protected plants and animals in Latvia and Europe. At the same time, the park stands out thanks to its expressive, visually high-value landscape and high-quality recreation opportunities. A special atmosphere is created by the observation tower, from which a wide panorama of the Kārsava region can be seen. Two stargazing chairs next to the tower invite you to enjoy the landscape by day, and gaze at the starry sky by night. One nature trail leads to the environmental installation “Fire”. This object offers a symbolic message about the need to listen to nature, respect its rhythm and remember that man is not the only inhabitant of this world.
Destination: Kārsava
We have reached our destination: Kārsava. The city is rich in impressive churches, such as the Malnava Rosary Our Lady Roman Catholic Church, which stands out for its unique location in the midst of other churches, the Kārsava Euphrosyne Orthodox Church as an example of Russian sacred wooden architecture and the Kārsava Resurrection Evangelical Lutheran Church with its unusual story of rebirth. After a long journey, this experience will be truly relaxing.
If you manage to visit a local shop or even a home-made bread shop while travelling, buy a real loaf of country bread. In Latgale, bread is baked with special devotion, often with caraway seeds or a sweet and sour taste. If you want a hearty lunch, try grūdeni, a traditional dish made from grains, vegetables and meat, which satiates the body and warms the spirit in winter.
Plan your return journey from Viļaka to Riga yourself, so that you can enjoy not only the magic of Latvia’s winter, but also explore cultural and historical sites. If you choose Ludza as your next stop, you will find a peaceful Latgale lake town with a picturesque old town and impressive medieval castle ruins between the Great and Small Ludza lakes. This is a great place for a leisurely walk to enjoy the panorama. If you choose Rēzekne, you will experience the cultural capital of Latgale and have an opportunity to climb the castle mound near the castle ruins, see a modern, bold architectural message and solution in the design of the Zeimuļs creative services centre and stop by the Gors concert hall, which has become one of the symbols of the city. However, if you include Daugavpils in your route, the path will lead to a cultural adventure in Daugavpils Fortress, where the Rothko Museum hosts permanent and temporary exhibitions that simultaneously illustrate the scale of history and trends in contemporary art.
